Malaysia part 3: Kuala Lumpur - Johor Bahru , An unexpected treat

Peninsular Malaysia - Part 2

Having battled the highways and the heat leading into Kuala Lumpur, I arrived just in time to take shelter from a torrential thunderstorm. If you’ve experienced them in KL you’ll know they are quite impressive.

I would be spending the next 3 days in Kuala Lumpur to see in my birthday, watching a bit of rugby and spending a fair amount of time planning the next few months.

Although I actually saw very little of KL, it wasn’t somewhere I felt I wanted to spend much time. With one of its most popular tourist attraction being the Petronas Towers, it did little to inspire me. That said, I could be proven otherwise, and hope to re-visit Malaysia when visiting India and Bali on a personal development retreat. I also didn’t visit Batu Caves, one of the most popular and highly regarded Tamil Hindu shrines outside of India, just outside of KL , but I would like to visit during Hindu Tamil festival, Thaipusam.

During my time in KL the Moto GP was also being held there, bringing with it hoards of people from all over the world.

I spent my birthday in KL and treated myself to a nice meal and a few glasses of wine. Two attractive Austrian girls named Lydia and Dani sat on the table next to me and soon enough we started chatting. We’d spotted a rat running on the floor between tables, unbeknown to the people sat at the tables, which we were having a giggle at, when I see under their table, a rat go into one of their bags. “Ummmmm” laughing to my self and pointing, unsure how to verbalize this, expecting them to freak out, “a rat has just climbed into your bag by the way”. To my surprise, there was very little reaction, as I know many would freak at this. We had a good laugh for a while after that and then parted ways. They were nice.

I met some cool, friendly people in KL, but I was excited to hit the road when the time came to leave.

From KL, I heading south west, back towards the coast again, in the direction of Melaka, which seemed far easier to navigate than the route in from the North, but for a few KM’s on the mainhighway .

- The highway out of Kuala Lumpur -

The first stop after KL was in a small hotel on a local parade in a small suburb called …….., 110km outside of KL. I sat myself straight at a table of a Nasi Kandar restaurant, ordered an teh-o-ais limau (dangerously sweet lemon iced tea), a Roti telur (a pancake with an egg cooked inside it), then went up to the counter to get my rice and curry. Nasi Kandar, popularized by Indian Muslims and orginiating from Penang, nortern Malaysia, is a buffet style meal of steamed rice and your choice of a selection of curries, with me choosing Ayam Madu, a sweet curry more akin to Chinese flavors than Indian, in my opinion.

-Ayam madu – parade restaurant Putrajaya-

I got myself washed, and sat my saddle assaulted backside on the soft bed for half an hour, as I observed where I was in the world and the day of riding past, as I usually do in an almost meditative/ delirious state. Feeding time comes around quickly when riding long distances, which is no bad thing when in a culinary idyll like Malaysia. I went to a local restaurant and took a seat, with many of the locals apparently mesmerized by this white man with a ginger beard and a mickey mouse t-shirt sat in their restaurant.

It was here I had my best Mee Goreng and Char Kuey Teow in all of Malaysia.

-Me Goreng and Char Kuey Teow Din restaurant –

I was soon joined by a young guy named Din, who turned out to be the owner of the restaurant.

“ I have my own construction business, by I have this restaurant to offer my wife the opportunity to run her own business and to provide jobs for more people” “ It also allows me to come and socialize with people” he continued. Din and I sat for 45 minutes, chatting away about all sorts of things, including golf. Din was a keen golfer, having travelled to the UK to play, amongst other destinations. Din had to leave, but insisted on gifting me my meal on the house, which was super kind, and then on having a photo together. Din and I are still in touch now.

- Din and I at his restaurant -

Malaysia is the second largest producer of Palm Oil in the world, after Indonesia, accounting for 39% of the worlds oil production and 44% of the worlds export of palm oil. Huge stretches of palm plantations spread through Malaysia which are a sight to be seen. Whilst ostensibly attractive in appearance, these plantations and the production of Palm Oil has a devastating impact on the environment, with around 50% of the worlds orangutan population killed as a consequence of palm oil production, a very sad statistic.

- Palm oil plantation riding -

This made me think of a picture I came across recently that I will share with you below.

Melaka or Malacca, dubbed the “The Historical State” and nicknamed ‘the Venice of the east” sits along the southeastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, overlooking the Straights of Malacca and is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. Occupied by the Portuguese from 1511 - 1641, the Dutch from 1641-1824 and the British from 1824-1948, Melaka’s tumultuous history has made way for what I think is now one of Malaysia’s gems. Its history can be seen around every corner, whilst its peaceful blend of cultures work together, inviting you in and charming the pants of you.

It is a joy to cycle around the grid of streets, and the meandering river in the heart of Melaka, looking at the many colonial buildings. The Melaka river offers a beautiful setting to stop for a cold beer, some food or coffee by day or night..

- Melaka river -

Wild Coriander in particular is a great restaurant with an equally great view of the river. One afternoon I sat and enjoyed lunch for a few hours as boats passed up and down the river carry groups of Malaysians who would smile and wave, followed by cheers as you waved back.

The food at Wild Coriander was delicious and the Pie Tee in particular was outstanding. Small mouthful sized pastry cups filled with yam bean, egg, noodles, crispy garlic, spring onion, chili and coriander, and topped off with a sambal chili sauce that brings the whole thing together in a mouth dance.

Calanthe Art Cafe, famous for its Laksa is also worth a visit. The Laksa for me was a little too salty and rich, but after adding a touch of water to it and a squeeze of lime, it was a perfect consistency and balance. The one thing that I really enjoyed about this restaurant was opposite, a teenage blind dude would sit every night, playing either a keyboard or traditional Malay violin, with a box for donations in front of him that read “I am blind but I trust you”. I sat and watched him playing these instruments as he swung his head side to side in a Stevie Wonder esque way, but it was the joy in which he took from playing these instruments that fascinated me. In a life full of darkness, this young boy had learnt to play these instruments which seemed to bring him joy, whilst also bringing joy to others. I found it very special.

I also met Azizal, a Kuala Lumpurian, at Calanthe Café one night. Azizal was riding a single speed bike, otherwise known as a ‘fixie’ and who took an interest in my bike. We ended up sitting together and chatting and he ended up paying for my coffee and cake which was very kind of him.

- Azizal and I at Calanthe Café -

I tend to avoid the popular tourist bars, but during my time in Melaka, Sids Bar became somewhere I’d go for a few beers. Despite the name, it was a great place, perched right on the river, with live music…….. and they showed the rugby. The Autumn internationals were on, and although I have zero interest in football anymore, rugby is still a game I love to watch when I have the opportunity. The manager Ric and his staff were also a great bunch. Ric, originally from Nottingham was a funny guy and we got on well; having a few beers and chatting about different things. He kept on buying my beers which was also very kind. He also gave me a word of warning. “See that barmaid, she likes you! STAY AWAY!!” Ric said laughing, “she’ll eat you alive.”

Part of the Indian Malay culture and custom is to eat their food with their right hand, and although not something I’m too accustomed to, apart from the usual suspects, i.e, hot dogs, burgers, pizza, chicken wings etc, I had to at least try it once.

Saravan curry house was recommended to me, so when this banana leaf was laid in front of me and the curries put on top, I was going in fingers first, which, whilst authentic, will be the first and last time I eat a curry with my hands, assuming I’m not offending anyone by not. A big ladle full of curry was added to this after the picture.

- Saravan Curry House eaten by hand -

Burgers might not be on your list of eats whilst in Malaysia but The Baboon House, a gourmet burger restaurant in Melaka, should be. Don't despair, if burgers aren’t your thing, a cup of coffee or fruit smoothie might be, as the real reason for my recommending this restaurant is the building itself. Yes the burgers are very good, but it’s the building and setting that I found most appealing and why I recommend it. An original building full of classic features, with a central atrium, quirky art and plants and water features all around, it is a very pleasing building and a fun place to beat the heat of the day.

- The Baboon House -

One thing I love about Southeast Asia is that there is nearly always somewhere to eat late at night. Malaysia seems to go one step further, as you find a 24 hour ‘Mamak’ restaurants in most towns. Walking back to my guesthouse one night and I fancied a late night snack. Melaka is infamous for the brightly coloured, lit up tuk tuks that race around the streets, transporting tourists from A to B with heavy base dance music pumping out of them.

I asked one of the rickshaw guys if he knew anywhere I could get some food. It was 1am at this point and the streets were deserted, but he knew the exact place. “Yes brother, I will take you”. It was a street food vendor with a few plastic tables scattered around a car park. I asked if could buy him some food, and after saying yes, we sat and chatted in broken English for 20 minutes. He said his brother was a ‘skinhead’ and that he was rebellious and drank beer, which I found interesting, considering he was Malaysian, therefore Muslim. He offered me a lift back, but I was happy to walk. Half way back, with 500m to go, I got caught in a proper Southeast Asian torrential downpour, getting absolutely drenched through, so I ended up just dancing in the rain in the solitude of the night, which was fun.

It was great to meet and be inspired by different people from all over the world here, including a Sam and Emily from Hong Kong, who were there on holiday. We had a few drinks together and a cool chat about Buddhism and travel, with Sam explaining that he had been a ski instructor in Japan when he was younger and Emily that she’d studied Buddhism. Great combo.

-Sam, Emily and Me -

I met Chris and Cassie a nice couple from England who had traveled overland mainly by hitch hiking and train’s from the UK to Malaysia and were finishing their adventure in a few days.

On my last night in Melaka before I made the final ride south, I met another two inspiring guys from the UK whilst watching England play New Zealand in the rugby at Sids Bar. Tom and James were sailing around the world on a 32 foot boat called Blue Eyes, which sounded awesome. Cool guys and their adventure sounds amazing.

I’d yet to try Popiah, a fresh spring roll style street food very popular is Malaysia and Singapore but originating from Fujian, China-, so I was delighted to see a Popiah street food stall with a queue of locals standing at it as I was cycling out of Melaka. There was a sign saying no videos or photos which is always a good sign in my mind, as it suggest they have the best recipe, quite probably passed down through generations and are obviously very proud of it. I bought two and ended up devouring them later in the day on the side of the road, and they were absolutely delicious.

It was about 2pm and the sun was roasting and I was drenched through, when I noticed a nice touring motorbike pass me, with the man waving and continuing on whilst watching me in his mirror very closely, like he was just about to witness me being eaten by a lion or something. Apart from smiling, I didn’t think anything more of it, as it is a very common occurrence to be waved, stared and even laughed at when traveling by bike in Southeast Asia. 10 minutes later, the same man pulled up next to me and we stopped.

Izwas, a local construction businessman was a very friendly guy and stopped to give me a cold bottle of water and a cold electrolyte drink, which, in that heat and over these distances, is always very welcome and just selflessly kind. Izwas was very interested in my bike and even took it for a wobbly ride on the side of a relatively fast road. He’d travelled quite extensively on his motorbike around Europe, but said he’d wanted to tour by bicycle. We exchanged contact details, and we still continue to message from time to time, which is great.

Izwas and his lovely touring motorbike on side of the road –

I love the unexpectedness of bike travel and the encounters and random acts of kindness you experience along the way. If you ever need your faith in humanity restoring, load up a touring bike and hit the road.

I arrived into Pontian, a small fishing town on the south western tip of Malaysia after what was a surprisingly hard day of headwinds. I was stopped at a busy traffic lights, when and a big guy pulls up next to me on a motorbike with an even bigger grin on his face. “ Hello friend. We have a cycling club. Please come. Follow me.” And the lights changed and he was off.

“Hello. Right. Ok” with the feeling I was being told and not asked.

Tired, hot, sweaty, thirsty and hungry, I followed this seemingly nice guy through quiet backstreets to the Pontian Cycling Club (PCC), and I’m so glad I did. It’s times like this, that in a tired, sweaty daze, you could easily decline the invitation, and miss out on something so amazing.

Arriving at the PCC. I didn’t realise at this point that I’d been being filmed and photo as I was riding.

Having followed OC on his motorbike, weaving around the small streets of Pontian, we arrived. I was soaked through with sweat and feeling a little dehydrated, but when I walked in to the PCC, I knew I’d made the best decision of the day, only corroborated when OC put a cold beer in my hand. “I have to go, but Jackie will be here soon” OC said.

- Me and OC at the PCC –

Jackie arrived, and I instantly took a liking to this friendly, smiling guy. I was soon signing my name and putting a pin in a map on the wall.

- Pinning and signing the wall. You can see from the many pictures and flags just how many bike travellers they have welcomed –

- Me and Jackie at the PCC. Such a lovely man -

Unfortunately, and much to the disappointment of Jackie, and my self at that, I’d booked a local hotel an hour before I arrived in Pontian, and with the intention of staying only one night in Pontian, Jackie insisted on going for dinner. “You will meet Mike the boss” Jackie said.

I didn’t know what to expect and thought there might be 2 or 3 people joining, tops, but as I met Jackie by my hotel, I realized there would be a few more and I was officially a guest. I certainly didn’t expect the hospitality I received, nor to be getting shit faced and going to bed at 4am after going for Indian Malay food at 3am from a 24 hour restaurant. Knowing I wouldn’t be fit to cycle the following day and easily yielding to the kindness and persuasion, I decided I’d stay another day and move to the PCC the following day; another great decision.

A very warm and generous welcome from the PCC - Pontian Cycling Club

That ‘one more day’ turned into 3 more days, and for 3 days, I was shown incredible hospitality and kindness that I will remember for all my days.

The Pontian Cycling Club, aka, the PCC, is a local cycling club who embark on bike tours themselves, rent a residential/commercial space which doubles up as a social club and hostel for bike tourists. Mike, Jackie, Oc, Sam, Cm, Yau, Eer, Shou, are just a few of the PCC who take great pride in inviting bike tourist into their club and showing them amazing hospitality.

It’s funny, it seems they have an unwritten rule that when any of them sees any kind of bike tourist they stop them and invite them to stay at the PCC, then call each other, Jackie usually being the first as he takes so much pride in the experience. Their hospitality knows no bounds. For 3 days, I was taken to restaurant after restaurant and bought lunch after lunch and beer after beer, and one day even sitting in Eers local hair salon to do some blogging in the cool. Big Mike, the boss, took me to a few temples and then through the back roads to Tanjung Pia, the most southern point of Mainland Asia, which was very cool.

Big Mike and I at the most southerly point of mainland Asia

Which want do I want to go, the world is my oyster and there is definitely a pearl in there

On our way back, we passed two bike tourers and we quickly turned around, the excitement from both of us palpable.

Clement and Quentin, brothers from France, who were cycling back to France had just started their bike tour that very day from Singapore when we saw them.

I could sense their hesitation when Mike told them of the PCC, as I had a similar feeling, but no-one expects what the PCC offer.

With Clement and Quentin now staying as well, it was great to witness their reaction to the hospitaility I’d already had the pleasure of experiencing.

We continued to be well looked after, being taken from restaurant to restaurant, breakfast lunch and dinner.

Breakfast in a local restaurant and a photo with the owner

That night I slept in the hammock outside on the terrace. That was until I was woken by “rain drops falling on my head” and lightning at 3am.

-My first night sleeping in a hammock with the sound of the sea gently lapping the shore in the background. It was very uncomfortable, only to be further spoilt by a 0300am downpour and lightning. It was great.-

On our last day day Clement and Quentin had gone for a cycle down to Tanjung Pia, and Big Mike dropped me at a restaurant to do some blogging where I had a delicious Laksa and some really interesting sour mango. Different locals I had met would pass by, sit for 5 minutes and then leave. As I went to leave and pay, the owner said that it was ‘her treat’ which was just amazing.

- Laksa and sour mango -

Sour Mango. Super tasty and interesting.

On our last evening, the PCC put on a BBQ for us which was outstanding. Jackie took the reigns and BBQ’d up a storm of fresh scallops, prepared straight from the shells, and Korean bbq, which was all delicious, but it was the company that made the experience. Their kids, and friends came and soon it was a large gathering and such an amazing experience.

On the morning Clement, Quentin and I were due to leave, there was the Pontian fun run/ walk that the Hokkien Chinese Malay community take part in, and we were asked to help as cycling stewards. We were on the bikes by 0600 and on our way for breakfast. Jackie came and got us and by 0600, the four of us were cycling through the streets of Pontian to meet the rest of the PCC for breakfast.

Early morning ride with the PCC in Southern Malaysia. My dreams are made of experiences like this.

With the group now larger, we made our way through the streets to the start line, where we were met by 200 + people, all wearing the orange Pontian Fun Run t-shirts which we were alos wearing, and where we were welcomed almost as celebrities. It was great fun.

A large group of us then cycled to a famous and the oldest tea house in Pontian for tea and cake and got shown around the local fish market.

We said our goodbye’s and huge thanks to the PCC, then Jackie escorted Clement, Quentin and myself out of Pontian, waving goodbye to my new French friends as they went north and to Jackie as he turned off to go home.

With my time in Southeast Asia coming to a close, it was such a great ending to what had been one of the most incredible experiences of my life.

I’d planned and re-planned the next part of my route numerous times, but one thing is for sure, it was going to be cold. The route ultimate decision maker was not being able to get my Russian visa without returning to the UK. When deciding Japan and Korea would form part of my route, I planned to start in north Japan, cycle south, cross into Korea, cycle north, then take a ferry to Vladivostock where I would take the Trans Siberian railway to St Petersburgh then continue cycling from there into Finland.

Returning to the UK to collect a VISA wasn’t an option, so I decided to start in Seoul, Korea and ride south into Japan from there.

Part of my original plan had been to ride to Johor Bahru, where a 1km long causeway connects Singapore to Malaysia, then cross into Singapore where I would fly to Korea. I reached Johor Bahru, booked a couple of nights in a hotel and then changed my plans due to the cost of flights being considerably cheaper from Johor Bahru.

And so, after exactly 2 days shy of 1 year spent cycling around Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar and Malaysia, my bags were packed and Surly Temple was boxed and I was on my way to Korea. Awesome.

- Bags packed -